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From Phnom Penh got out on Highway 5 and if you have the same luck as me you will get very lost looking for the plce despite being able to see it from the road.
The day was very hot despite starting the trip before 7am, but after having got lost several times before finding the right turn of for the site, it was 10am before I actually started to look around the monument.
Be warned it is quite a trek up to the top of the mountain, I am told by the little guides that attached themselves to me, that there are over 600 steps to the top. I didn't count them but had to stop a few times on the way up for water and a breather. (be warned the guides don't work for free so negotiate before moving up the mountain)
Udong offers spectacular views of the surrounding country and the innumerable sugar palm trees that punctuate the countryside. King Ang Dung, the great grandfather of the present king; King Sihanouk, was crowned here and many locals and foreign residents alike picnic here on weekends so it can get busy.
In comparison to sites like Angkor this is very small but certainly worth a visit especially for the manificent views from this only real high ground in Kandal province.
WELL WORTH A VISIT...***
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